If you sometimes move between the Estonian islands (and indeed there’s plenty of space to move around) — like Muhu, Saaremaa, — then you definitely encounter the ferries.

It’s just inevitable.

You’d think what could an eat-lover expect on a ferry (sic!), floating for only 20 minutes (!) – just like travelling by bus, though by an extremely exciting one?

But indeed there’s something.

Here the restless Scandinavians threw a real dining room: salmon, ham hock, chicken with pineapples and strong alcohol. Everything’s of very decent quality and it seems to me that they make twice as much profit on food as on the fare.

Oh well, there’s a dining room, so what? Pffh… Like we haven’t seen enough of dining rooms, even in the high seas?!

But things are not as simple as they seem (c).

Even if you don’t consider kama (the Estonian yogurt with grated bran) to be a hit – they serve SOLYANKA here!

A small bowl for €3.5, a big one for 5, and it’s damn good.

Really the shit! Sweet and at the same time sour, slightly spicy, filled up to the bottom with Estonian smoked sausages, which are cut into small pieces, with sour cream… alright, let’s get it straight, with double sour cream!

It completely knocked me over on my first trip to Muhu, and now I’m always looking forward to it. I don’t even have lunch ashore. Only with the leaden shining Northern sea, its fluorescent ships and the low sky outside the window – sorry, outside the porthole: magnificence.