Above: Extremely High City Food on the Mezzanine of Toranomon Hills.
Japan, Tokyo, Minato, Toranomon, 1 Chome−２３−3 above / 19 апреля 2017
Akira Watanabe was fusion addicted before, but unlike most “haute chefs” who are just fucking around with the one and only purpose of showing off, he always did everything thoughtfully in every minute detail. In Japanese style.
Nothing super vulgar like “sushi with foie gras” (c).
No fusion for the sake of fusion. The moment it gets into your mouth, you clearly realize for what purpose one component has been replaced/complemented with another and why spaghetti Bolognese have been ‘perverted’ in a certain way and so on. All this is understood at the level of reflexes, without any special hints.
In “Above” he is ahead of himself: it is a hypersimple restaurant, located in the hall of a skyscraper, in the atrium, actually in a business center, suitable rather for lunch. Indeed, you don’t mind dragging yourself there over and over again despite all these stupid Toranomon Hills, even if you aren’t staying in Andaz.
This time Japan, Italy and Mexico have met and it is the bomb!
All these Carbonaras 2.1/Bolognese 3.0 pastas are improved in Japanese style by vegetables/root crops, raw mushrooms and lightened foamy sauces.
The salad with guacamole, salsa, and a variety of vegetables and leaves/herbs is something absolutely transcendental (or it’s just me madly in love with guacamole).
In general, everything you get BREATHES as if it was right from the countryside, although you are in the urbanistic center of Tokyo. Dew and tears are pouring from it on the cuts of vegetables, roots and fruit. The main thing is that it is immensely delicious!
Delicious without any “wind correction” and excuses about it being “just a city food”. All right “just”, but it is a very talented “just”.
I think this is only the beginning! We’ll be keeping an eye on it!