Those, close to the chef Jean-Michel Elban, of Maximilien, say that he was chased by the Michelin watch-dogs. They wouldn’t leave him be and did grant him a star over 15 years ago.

Jean-Michel, even as a young chef, didn’t care for stars. All he wanted then and still wants now is to hang in the kitchen from dusk till dawn, and cook, cook, cook. That he does. It leaves him no time for tv shows and other distracting activities.

Whenever the restaurant is open, the chef is present in the kitchen, 100% of the time. It says a lot, primarily it is a guarantee of getting exactly what you came for. Consistent quality, consistent flavors. Just like visiting grandma for the 150th time, knowing, that she will, once again, make the same old meat and garlic roll, that you’ve known ever since you were a child. Nothing will change. Nothing. That is most important.

Same with Jean-Michel. Pigeon and Lobster — all else ceases to exist. Cauliflower tartar with scallop carpaccio — hold your breath, I’m coming. Pan seared foie-gras with rhubarb — god, am I worthy? Would you like some scampi soup? Why ask at all? You and I know that scampi never tasted better.

He uses only the top quality produce. He’s had a life-long affair with baby vegetables and edible flowers, way before it became and later ceased to be a gastronomical trend.

All dishes, if intended, reach the table, piping hot — chef’s trademark. He makes sure of this.

Ana, the chef’s wife, solely takes care of the interior. Everything is…cute, making a Muscovite weary, but all doubts fade as soon as the first amuse-bouche reaches the table and then you witness a marriage between a Pigeon and a Lobster.

Eat the bread. Scoop the butter from the silver rooster dish and spread it thick. Don’t refuse a refill. They don’t bake the bread, but they know where to get it, and they get it right. Same with the butter.

What else? The restaurant sits atop of the hill, overlooking a vineyard, beautiful any day, in any weather. You must have the apero and the digestif on the terrace. If not offered, ask for it yourself. The chef is also in charge of the vast garden. Another one of his hobbies that he dedicates his only day-off to. Well, I don’t know about that…

I could serenade the scenic route to and from the place, but I won’t. If you have not yet been to Alsace – go. Go do this whole foodie tour. Alsace is home to 26 3-star restaurants, more than any other French region. Even more 2-starred, every third place has a star, and in most others you’d eat and drink, lost for words.

The chef’s brother produces biodynamic wine. I, personally, am not a huge fan of Alsatian Pinot Noir, but the Elbin-Fuchs Pinot is delightful. Surprisingly, I enjoyed it at an entirely different restaurant, where I was forcefully convinced to try it, a chance which I am thankful for.

Another interesting fact – the chef is so humble that the house-sommelier would never offer their own wine. You have to ask! Other regional chefs always include the Elbin-Fuchs wines in their lists. The vineyard is 250 meters away and you can always load up a few crates of the wine you enjoyed.

Trust the sommelier.

A spa and many other Alsatian musts are all in a mere 10mins ride. I will mention them in my future reports.