The Dead Sea is a good thing, but the place is really «dead».

At least, on the Jordanian coast there is absolutely nothing to do. They have several private hotels along the sea and silence. Even in Kempinski Ishtar Dead Sea with its huge territory, seven restaurants and spa by the third day you begin to howl.

Ok.  We get a car and go for a wander.

The driver, Ahmad, is a good-looking gray-haired Jordanian in a black suit, speaks good English. He tells us that in Jordan all children have to learn English at school. In fact, we had no problems communicating with the locals.

Having crisscrossed all the holy sites, we begin to think of food in material sense. Ahmad promises to take us to “a beautiful place» in Aqaba.

«It is clear,» we think, «Now he’ll take us to some local hell-hole with a gift-shop belonging to the brother of his younger wife, etc. (Forgive us, Ahmad, for thinking badly of you!) So, we agree, as there are no other options and we don’t want to go back to the hotel.

Indeed, the sign reads “Restaurant & Gift Shop”. All right, we have already arrived, so we’ll take a look. Besides, the vintage S-klasse, carefully parked opposite the entrance, draws our attention.

According to the Jordanian standards everything inside is quite decent. Near the entrance there’s the “2005 Best Tourist Restaurant” figurine, although you can’t see any tourists. Only locals are around and they’re obviously not orphans.

Further, there’s mutton on grill with mint sauce on pita, the most tender hot flatbread, delightful mutabal, kofta. In short, the typical kebab/tomato delio as it should be. And yes, excellent Lebanese and Jordanian wine, they also have European wine, of course, but that wouldn’t be being a good sport in such a place.

Laura Bush and other respectable people won’t allow lies to be told.