Why did we need to go to the formerly glorious, now industrial town, where Modigliani was born, and a tsar liked to visit, because of its racetrack and ancient thermal baths? Now, all that is left of the previously blooming town are ruins of the ancient citadel, a cargo port, three squares with statues and desolate bank buildings, a branch of canals, striving towards Venetian, and a tiny promenade with mansions, slightly influenced by Mauritanian style. There is, however, a Naval Academy, for the lovers of sailors and extra excitement on those long summer nights.  Overall, Livorno is a sleepy hollow that wakes up three times a year, for a regatta, a festival celebrating the grape and mushroom harvests, and a «venetian celebration» on that canal branch. Deadly boring, BUT…

We searched and dug. If you dig deeper, you can find many more aspects that make this port worthy of a visit. Avoid the chaotic industrial and newer dirty parts, heading directly to the southern borough, where prosperous Italian pensioners forgot, with time, about the harm of smoking and binge-drinking, and made it to the age of graying private parts, without the aid of doctors and ambulances. They are aided by the crystal-blue sea and old Pancaldi thermae, built back in 1846, a date marked proudly at the entrance.

Overall, it is all about pride here. There is no service at the five-star palazzo for that same reason, but a one-day stay on a goose feather bed is good enough, considering that it opens the best views of the Pancaldi and the neighboring blue lagoons. The spacious halls with columns provide shelter for the remnant antiques that remember the last Russian tsar, and the monstrous painting on the wall depicts him and his wife posing in front of the only local tram. Besides, this town hides so many tasty gems, mentioning them all would take a while. We will tell you a bit about, and give coordinates to the raddest ones.

La Stuzzecheria is our eternal love. A fish shop with cooking on the spot, right across from the yacht marina. Ideal treat for compatriots, not versed in Italian. There is Lana, a lovely waitress, who’s russian is basic and efficient enough to help with the choice and who will wait the table as efficiently. We even tried the «we don’t want to spend much» phrase on them and all we got were understanding smiles, without a shadow of sarcasm or contempt.

The second convenience here is the fish counter, that carries the freshest catch in town, pointing endlessly at which, you will make no mistake. Trust them in choosing the cooking method. In our few visits, they were spot-on. Without lobsters, sea urchin, and excessive drinking, you would leave happy, and about a 100 euro lighter. With them, unzip your wallet slightly wider.

L’Osteiciao – that busy, popular tent on the sea-front, where all of the coastal beau monde hangs, along with some tourists that figured out that this is the place to be. The selection is simple. Starter, pre-sealed and set on a chilled display, a few types of oysters, and shellfish pasta. Three types of wines – and basta. The seats at the wobbly tables on a wooden deck rotate fast. We have Petya and Pile to thank for this lovely find. For Livorno, generally, we thank you guys.

La Madia is of old tradition. This place will guide you to the old world of granny-like charm, with incredible food. I love experiences like this. Along with travel guides of all sorts. The windows are almost fully covered with recommendation stickers from all over the world. It is well deserved. Pink shrimp crudo will seal the impression, ravioli with truffle and desserts that are a 100% «feast for the soul» will please the most demanding. I kind of don’t eat dessert, but here, I was asking for «all of it, por favor!» Overall, good-old cuisine. The owner is an old man. His dog is old. Traditions are old and so are the flavors. Squeeze your credit card, you can’t go without good wine and a digestive. Swipe without looking at the bill. Who gives «quanto» and «costa», when it is magical like this.

After the restaurants, run to the Arts Gallery of Livorno. In the cool of those halls, Italians and Modigliani await.